Message Index

• "SLOW RIDE" I built half a model!
  • That's really cool !! I like that *NM*
• Searching for a Surfite engine. Can anyone help?...SCAN INSIDE....
• Lou Christie has passed away. "Two Faces Have I" was released one year before my High School graduation. *NM*
• Does anyone have an email address for Alan Cozby? TIA *NM*
• More of my Tamiya Toyota GT One
  • Mike....thats nice work, what are the seat belts?.....they appear to be the most realistic that I've seen. *NM*
    • Thank. I have some very narrow ribbon that I once found. I colored it red with a Sharpie. *NM*
  • That's very cool. Is the kit difficult to work with? There looks to be a lot of spindly parts, but then again Tamiya tends to design solid kits. *NM*
    • Well, there's always fragile parts. Plus I'm using PE and CF dcals. *NM*
  • Great details! *NM*
• I've always heard it's not a great idea to paint bodies in high humidity. Does/would the use of a dehydrator help at all? Does the type of paint matter at all (enamel or lacquer)? *NM*
  • Yes, it's not a great idea to paint in high humidity. It can trap water vapor in the paint, creating a milky appearance called blushing. And it doesn't matter whether you use lacquer or enamel, although you can add a retarder to lacquer to slow the drying process...
    • This helps, thank you. Finally getting a weekend off, but it's supposed to be crazy humid. *NM*
      • YW, and yeah, crazy humid is not a good time to paint. Best to wait until humidity is in the 40%-60% range. Hate to see an otherwise great paint job ruined by weather. *NM*
    • This helps, thank you. I'm finally getting a weekend off, but it's supposed to be crazy humid like it is now. *NM*
    • Yep, you're right Klaus....tho' here in Oz its called "blooming".........either way its a PITA ......lol. *NM*
• Has anyone heard any update on Shirley Muldowney? *NM*
  • What happened to her? *NM*
• 1/25 Lake Pipes
• Nice Power Wagon, really wish they'd kit it! *NM*
• For anyone building the recent Revell kit, 14565, with custom Harley, attachment from original release may be helpful. I've also included excerpts from new instructions.....SCANS INSIDE...
  • Thanks ,much better *NM*
    • Hopefully useful. *NM*
      • Thank you! Copied into my model tips folder! *NM*
• I agree 100% with you.... I can't believe owners think that look good, looks like they were in a hurry to finish. *NM*
• Steve Knox !! The Chevelle decals showed up yesterday. You're a stand up man, thank you for sending them. *NM*
  • Glad I could help. *NM*
• The rest of the Plymouth at the link! :D *LINK*
• VARAC...Vintage Automobile Racing Association Canada...this past weekend at Mosport... *LINK*
  • Looks like a great time! *NM*
• Thanks once again for the wip pics! *NM*
• That's really nice. I have a 29 pickup on the bench myself *NM*
• Dave Van, I received your packet today, holy moly, you went way over the top. Thank you so much, I can use lots of those. BTW, who is David Curry? And thanks again!! *NM*
• Here's the '64 I've been picking away at, using the resin '66 backhalf. Keep in mind that you're on your own for tail lights; darts were oval not round. *PIC*
  • I believe the '63 Dart had round taillights *NM*
    • You are absolutely correct. I actually was referring to the '66 dart but didn't make it clear. Slight mods will have to be made to the trunk/quarter on the resin dart to backdate to the round tail lights *NM*
• Agree totally. Other ugliness is a new repop anodized grill shell with no black accent paint applied installed on a restored car/truck. *NM*
  • Oh yeah, me too. Yes, it can be a tedious process to mask it all off, but it just looks half-assed without the black accents. *NM*
• I don't want to divert Marty's post below of Frank's awesome J2000. Was the J2000 Prostreet ever offered again after its initial release? *NM*
  • I don't think so, not even in SSP or as part of a set *NM*
  • As far as I know The J2000 was retooled / rebodied as the Beretta Pro Street but I could be wrong. Not sure if it had something to do with Rick Dobbertins Car and Rights ?? BTW the real car still exists to this day !!! *NM*
    • The Beretta was an alternate version. There was a C4 Corvette also *NM*
    • Between this and the Uncertain T, maybe model manufacturers are hesitant to tool up unique customs and rods *NM*
      • There were a bunch...Futurista, XR-6, Beatnik Bandit II *NM*
• You need to lend that shrink ray out. *NM*
  • Why, do you need it?? 8^)) *NM*
• Speaking of Frank.... Here is the latest build from his Freakin' Rican Speed Emporium... *PICS*
  • Great build of a kit that fought me when I tried building it when it was first released. I almost wish we could go back to those days of the street machine nationals. *NM*
  • Thanks Marty for posting this for me. ****INSIDE****
  • Man I love this. Prostreet was my thing back in the late 80's early 90's. *NM*
  • Nice work! *NM*
  • Great build!! *NM*
• A few days ago, there was some discussion about the Foose Cadillac kit.... Frank asked me to share pics of his various takes on that kit... *PICS*
  • Just loving the copper colored ragtop.. *NM*
    • X2!!!!! *NM*
      • X3!!!!!!! *NM*
  • Love the wagon! *NM*
  • Thanks Marty for posting these for me. ****INSIDE****
    • Hey Frank, here's my take on that wagon version. Just in case you're looking for another option. *PIX* and *LINK*
      • Pretty neat.... I would have never thought of that and that seems like something I would do. *NM*
  • Great set of quality ideas and execution. *NM*
• on subject of 3d printing, any one know of a decent 3d print for hire place (besides shapeways) some cool stuffs available now for print but i really have no desire to now get into that hobby as well would like to find someone who can just print and ill pay them *NM*
• Has anyone had 3d printed parts plated? How did they turn out? Would you tell us how you prepared them for plating? *NM*
  • The smoothness (or lack of) will shine right thru the plating. So get everything smooth and shiny before plating. You can use filler, primer, or lacquer paint when doing this "bodywork" just like on plastic parts. There is nothing special about 3D printed parts, that I
    • The vacuum metallizing (plating) process involves a fair amount of heat, which (at the very least) will shrink excessive amounts of filler and primer. Repaired plastic parts are a gamble also *NM*
      • Never had any problems with that. I've had quite a few re-worked parts plated over the years. *NM*
        • 1500°F to vaporize the aluminum, but only 90°F-110°F at the part being "plated", according to website I found. That wouldn't normally damage anything. *NM* *LINK*
  • I'm using AK Superchrome on them now and loving it. I prime them, sand them, paint them with flat black, spray 2K clear on them (I'm sure any good clearcoat would work) and then I spray the AK Superchrome. They're perfect.
    • It’s all about surface prep.. *NM*
• I got tired of waiting for Revell *PIC*
• Painted on a stock one except for hood ornament base. *NM*
  • I don't think you'd want that strip gleaming in the sun while you're driving on a really nice day *NM*
• Someone years ago did a resin body on the 66 Dodge Dart, but I don't recall you.
  • Probably Speed City Resin *NM*
• Someone found a '69 Sport Satellit over 20 years ago at a former C-P dealership site, then was "parked" after sustaining some body damage. Restorers flocked to it because they hoped it would answer a question, once and for all--were the radiator walls painted...
  • I remember that article; that car had different headlamp bulbs on each side also *NM*
  • Probably a job for a rookie on the assembly line. It sure wasn't a critical thing, and wouldn't really matter if it even got done at all, obviously. *NM*
  • That is funny, hope it gets fixed carefully and put back on the road *NM*
  • As long as the insurance check cleared...
• For the pictured fenderless car, it should work. For a more stock appearing (full-fendered) '32, you'd want the MPC Switchers body. But that one has a crummy interior, so then you have a project on your hands *NM*
• Nice old Chevy. Maybe some baby moons? Like the bumpers. *NM*
• I'm not a big fan of mag wheels on wide whites, but I do think it's just screaming out for a set of Dodge Lancer caps, or at least a set of chrome spiders.... But that's just my personal preferences....
• Now that I can access Fotki again, here some more progress pics on the Chevy pickup.
  • I'm not a big fan of big inch wheels and skinny sidewall tires (I'm stuck in the '60's) but I must say that those fill up the wheelwells nicely. *NM*
    • I figure it's all a matter of proportion. Those wheels are way too big for , say, a muscle car but look pretty good on a lowered pickup. Don't hurt that they made the rear wheel openings a bit oversized on those boxes for the big off road tires of the Fall Guy kit. *NM*
      • That was serendipity! *NM*
        • Yea. Works out good for something like this but not great for a stock build. I have shrank one down before though , , , *PIC*
          • Here's the other pic I messed up showing the work in progress,, *NM* *PIC*
            • Nice! *NM*
            • Tricky! *NM*
  • What did you use for the serpentine belt, please? *NM*
    • Just a piece of receipt paper cut in a strip and colored with a sharpie. '-)) *NM*
  • par excelance! *NM*
    • Thanks Charlie. *NM*
  • I can't remember if you said before or not. Is the engine a 3d print? *NM*
    • Yes, it is. *NM*
  • Back window looks great! Trick will also work on shrinking the monogram F250 slider window to fit the amt F series; same window 73-96. *NM*
  • Wow! *NM*
  • I love everuything about it, especially the wheels. You've brought this sweet old pickup right up through time. Gorgeous!!! *NM*
• Re: Working fine for me..... Something new that I've been seeing on the streets around town for the past few days....
• DIGGER
  • Cool, I'm thinking of building something similar using the old AMT '55 Nomad. *NM*
  • You are having WAY too much fun!! ;^) *NM*
  • Nice fade on the Ranchero. *NM*
• MPC '71-'73 Mustang. AMT had similar wheels in their '70 annual kit also *NM*
  • Re: MPC '70-'73 Mustang. Yup. They're also in the MPC '73 Mustang...and BTW, they are wheelcovers, NOT wheels.
• I could send you one. Send me a PM. *NM*
  • Email sent...and thanks. *NM*
• It is working again for me. Per Customer Service:
  • That was nice they let you know what was up. I just gave up for hours, until finally, I could sign in. *NM*
    • All you need to do is email them. "[email protected]" Took 7 hours to get an answer, but I'm sure they were swamped. *NM*
• It's the AMT 29 Ford Woody/Pickup. I wasn't paying attention. After the first color coat I realized those lines shouldn't be there but I didn't want to redo it. *NM*
  • There is a line there on the 1:1 (upper part is the exterior of the fuel tank) *NM*
    • Ok, cool! Thanks I guess l learned something today. *NM*
    • Correct, but - in your picture it looks like it is a raised line - like a welt or a bead. On the 1:1 it is a seam and should appear on the model as engraved instead of raised. *NM*
      • Correction, I meant Terry's picture - not Mark's. *NM*
      • Re: Correct... here's a good picture of it. *NM* *PIC*
      • The reason I asked about the model molding is that in 1:1 the line is the edge of the separate Model A fuel tank, I'd never noticed the seam shaped like that shown in the AMT kit....all good. *NM*
• Thank you! *NM*