Message Index

• Tamiya Panel Line accent paint..........anyone here used it?.......picking up some Black to use on the Tamiya AA painted TS53 Dark Blue.....any tips,hints,issues?...you remove it after its dried using the Tamiya thinner?...it doesn't affect the TS paint? ....thanks. *NM*
  • I used it on a die cast truck body. Mineral spirits used on a damp, not wet, Q-tip removes it. Also the best way to darken cowl grilles or vents. I suppose you should test on your choice of paints to be sure. *NM*
• Friday Evening Randomness..... ENJOY!!!!! *PICS*
  • You make Friday fun! *NM*
  • Great Pics Thanks for posting! *NM*
  • Thanks Marty! *NM*
  • Thanks! Marty. I see one of mine made it there, three and a part. The turquois/ivory 1955 Chavy , background Indy pace car, Monte Carlo SS. *NM*
    • PIC forground is harvest gold 1955 Nomad. *NM* *PIC*
  • Pulling out all the stops today... wow they are all my favorites. *NM*
• I love it! *NM*
• Miscellaneous Mopar Madness *PICS*
  • Thanks Bill!! *NM*
  • You always put together the Coolest pics! Love it all! *NM*
    • Amen to that! *NM*
  • Ooooooh maaaaannnnn..... That 62 Dart in the last pic makes the old heart go pitter-freakin'-pat!!! *NM*
• That does look very cool. Great stance and finish, realistic! *NM*
• Re: Rebuild not new build......
  • Bingo! *NM*
• is there a source for decals to build a 1970 Torino Twister ? Thanks. *NM*
  • Current issue Revell Torino kit has them *NM*
    • Thanks Mark *NM*
      • I didn't specify which version the Revell kit is, but it's the Cobra with the blue car on the box. I think the Twister is shown on the box side panel *NM*
        • OK, thanks again Mark. *NM*
• Any kits come with a supercharged small block Ford? *PIC*
  • I think the Revell Super Stallion has one. I don't have the kit, so I'm not too sure . The Revell Mach III has a supercharged 4.6 *NM*
  • Marc, no pic..but the AMT George Barris Surf Woody has a small block Ford witha pair of McCullough/Paxton(?) blowers feeding twin 4 barrel Holleys on a crossram intake, Ansen brand finned valve covers & a finned Cobra sump, George Barris never did any overkill...lol. *NM*
    • Carroll Shelby went Barris one better...two of those superchargers on a 427 Cobra. He only sold two of them *NM*
      • The famous "Bill Cosby at 200 MPH" album... *NM*
        • Jim Webb (song writer) had the other one. Cosby didn't have his very long, a later owner totaled it (and himself along with it) *NM*
          • Funny you mention that: Webb came to our agency in the 90's for an afternoon and talked about the Cobra
            • Strange that both buyers weren't really experienced in driving HP cars. Maybe the more experienced guys knew better? *NM*
              • A vendor to GM Performance had a side hustle powering the Factory Five and ERA Replicas...
                • MMTB syndrome (More Money Than Brains). *NM*
                  • One person in a thousand has the money; one in 10,000 has the skill *NM*
                    • I have neither, but I like that phrase! *NM*
    • Picture of AMT kit Barris Surf Woody engine per Andy's post above...TB;y *NM* *PIC*
      • Tim.....thanks for the pic...btw I assume thats your build?....either way its made me rethink the kit as the engine looks much better than on the box......more decisions....thanks. *NM*
        • Andy...yes my model. Won Best of Show at the 1978 Detroit Autorama MPC Contest and went on to finish third nationwide at the MPC finals....TB *NM*
          • So wheres a better or whole pic of it ......a mate gave the kit to me as he didn't think much of it......but after looking at the origin of the 1:1 car it may move up the pecking order......lol. *NM*
  • Superstars was based on the Mach I concept, which used the chassis and engine now in the AMT '66 Mustang GT fastback. The supercharger belt is in that kit, one or two other parts might be in there also...
    • Re: Superstang...spell check strikes again! *NM*
    • I have this kit and the GT350 kit I will check them this weekend. *NM*
    • Bugging Steve G to take a look for those inserts to do SuperStang/Mach
• If those 1/25 engines look a little small try the Monogram 1953 Chev kit, its 1/24th & is essentially the same Stove Bolt 6 as used in 1939, maybe with a changed aircleaner, the 19 extra cubes,235/216 won't show in 1/24 scale.....lol. *NM*
  • Unfortunately both it and the '53 Corvette engine have Powerglide transmissions. AMT '37 Chevy might work *NM*
    • Yeh, but couldn't the Powerslide be unbolted using a razor saw.....sorry......I'll go sit back in my corner now.....lol. *NM*
      • The 1/24 engine would be better, but there's no transmission to go with it *NM*
• My eleventh build for the year. 1965 Barracuda *PIX*
  • That would be a heckuva ride! Cool build! *NM*
  • That's cool! Did you print the engine? *NM*
    • Nah, I did it the old fashioned way and robbed it for another kit. LOL. *NM*
  • Nice work Ken, you're ahead of me......I've only done 10 this yr, gunna start another this weekend, not sure what tho', Tamiya's AA Sedan or Revell 67 Corvette plus a couple of others i've been grokking.........decisions,decisions......lol. *NM*
    • Well, the Tamiya Toyoda AA got the nod, should have it finished B4 the East Coast Hobby Expo 4/5th July....already got withdrawl symtoms as I'm missing all the drag parts from the last 10 builds as the Toyoda AA is all bog stock......lol. *NM*
  • That is wild!! *NM*
• Is the front sub-frame on a 1969 Mustang welded to the floor pans like on a MOPAR A, B and E body, or is it bolted on like a 1970's Camaro and Firebird ? *NM*
  • AFAIK the Mustang and its older brothers Falcon & Comet all have their subframe,inner guards & front crossmember spot welded together & to the firewall & floor, suspenion parts & gearbox mount are bolt-ons. *NM*
  • Andy is correct about the Fords (everything welded) but aren't the Mopars bolted on (except the A-bodies)? *NM*
    • Yes, the B- E- subframes are 'stuffed' into place from beneath...
      • Depends on how you define “subframe”. The “frame rails” on Mopars were welded to the unitized body structure. The “K frame” was essentially an engine cradle that bolted on from below. In the model car world, we would want to paint the K frame black and the
        • Period Mustang assembly line photo
          • Filming turned the place inside out -first and last time three lovely women would skitter around an assembly plant full of admiring men *NM*
        • 100% correct. Refer to any of Scott Ligget's recent Mopar builds. He's doing them correctly. *NM*
        • I should add that C-bodies had a bolt on front subframe in some years, but the details escape me at the moment. *NM*
          • I belive that was a '65-up (?) feature *NM*
            • The '60-'64 big cars had a lot in common with the full-frame '57-'59s. It's pretty much like the center section of the frame was chopped out, with the ends welded to a reinforced inner body *NM*
              • That's rather what I'm recalling - '65 was the change point
      • The bolt-on subframe was something GM was messing with since the mid-Fifties...
• What is the make and year of this pickup truck ? .......... *PIC* .....
  • Well, its a Studebaker! what year, I don't know! *NM*
  • Re:'49 to '53 Studebaker 2R5 puckup...My brother and I have a '53 that we restored years ago (PICS)
    • That is a beauty! *NM*
    • Great looking truck. They are very cool! *NM*
    • have always liked this model of Studebaker pickup....here in Oz the few that were imported are now looked as larger versions of the 1948-56 Holden Ute which had a similar shape & style....lol. *NM*
    • Wow is that ever cool! *NM*
• Another quick build. PICs This was all but done when I got it. Fresh paint and here it is.
  • That just brings a big ol' grin to my face!!! BTW... You're crankin' out all of these super cool builds, almost as fast as Frankie! 😁 *NM*
  • It does bring a smile. I keep getting these kits from one of my club members and they are so easy to finish and I can't find a job so 8 to 10 a day at the work bench gets a lot done. *NM*
  • One of my favorite AMT's. Looks good! *NM*
    • Thanks! *NM*
  • Clean build! *NM*
    • Thanks! *NM*
• Just had a win talking to Becky at Slixx, verry helpful, whilst no AA/FA there is enough letters etc to satisfy anal Andy plus various other sheets to keep me amused...all good..thanks guys. *NM*
• Woodland makes most of it these days. Its main uses were for architectural models and laying out advertising and other print items, all of those users have moved on to other methods and don't use transfers anymore *NM*
  • Maybe they are not manufactured currently, but they are still sold on eBay, Amazon, etc... *NM*
    • But the selection is getting thin (unfortunately). Watch out for partially used sheets, unless you want a bunch of "Z", "X", "Q", and punctuation marks *NM*
• I was searching for a particular pic and ran across an album from a few years ago. I don't think I ever posted pics here. So enjoy! PIC *LINK*
  • Terry.......thanks for the pic, after just finishing the Bantam Blast Altered that pic is just what I need...lol.......now where did I put the Wild Willie kit?.....lol. *NM*
    • Glad to be of assistance! *NM*
• Help! Has anyone built the Revell 57 Chevy Pro Sportsman. PICs
  • How does the other glass fit? Maybe you've got the glass from the '55 kit? *NM*
    • That could very possibly be what happened. I got this from a club member that passed and a lot of the kits have parts missing and mixed. *NM*
  • I built one when those kits first came out in the 90s(?).... My memory is that everything just fell together. Zero issues.....
    • I got this from a club member that passed and a lot of his kits are missing or mixed parts. *NM*
      • My suspicion then, is that what you have is a stock 57 windshield... The Softseal 57 Pro Mod, that the kit originally replicated, featured a body that was 7/8 scale as compared to stock... It was a very radical race car for it's time.. *NM*
        • With all the rivets, it sure isn't "stock". *NM*
          • Looking at it on my phone, honestly can't see any rivets *NM*
            • They are hard to see so I think it is from the 55 Pro Sportsman. *NM*
              • That windshield actually looks like it belongs to the Tom McEwen 57 Chevy Funny Car. *NM*
                • It very well could. Someone said it could be from the 55. The guy that passed had both and l am contacting the other club member that took the 55 to have him check his. It could be a simple swap. *NM*
                • The McEwen kit being 1/24 scale, it looks like the same piece but larger. I believe the 1:1 funny car body was based on the Pro Sportsman body *NM*
              • Terry let me look in my parts box of that kit I may have a windshield for you. Give me an hour or so. *NM*
                • Take your time. I'm still trying get in touch with the other guy. *NM*
                  • I looked in my box and I found the windows and parts to the 57 but these don't have rivets. I'll send them and if it works great if not keep them. I'm sure I still have your address unless you moved recently. *NM*
                    • We're still here but wait until l hearfrom the guy with the 55. He is in my local.club *NM*
• When building a model car where you have to install the windshield from the outside, what glue/adhesive do you use that dries invisible? I've tried Deco Art Media Liquid Glass Clear, but it dries too shiny, I can see it. I need something invisible. Thanks. *NM*
  • I use ModPoge on the inside and it's glossy. I just spread some "matte" ModPoge to see if it dries flat. I'll advise after it dries. As you know, a lot of matte products aren't truly flat. *NM*
  • I use this. Dries rock hard and crystal clear. *NM* *PIC*
    • Do you apply it over the entire window frame or just the 4 corners or ..... ? The liquid glass that I use in the 4 corners dries clear but is too shiny when it dries. The windshield looks like it's held in with 4 diamonds. I can see it in all 4 corners. It's not invisible. *NM*
      • I first just 'tack' the window in place with two or three very small drops. When that sets I'll add more. I use a toothpick to apply as carefully as I can. *NM*
        • OK. How do you add more drops of adhesive after the window is tacked into place? I don't understand. How do you get the additional drops between the window and the body? *NM*
          • My bad. I miss understood your original question. When the window fits from the outside I try very hard to lay small drops in the channel that the window fits in. It's very much a learning process. *NM*
  • After drying, the ModPoge "matte" is flat but not 100% crystal clear like their Gloss product. *NM*
• Perfect answer. Thank you John. *NM*