Message Index

• My eleventh build for the year. 1965 Barracuda *PIX*
  • That would be a heckuva ride! Cool build! *NM*
  • That's cool! Did you print the engine? *NM*
    • Nah, I did it the old fashioned way and robbed it for another kit. LOL. *NM*
  • Nice work Ken, you're ahead of me......I've only done 10 this yr, gunna start another this weekend, not sure what tho', Tamiya's AA Sedan or Revell 67 Corvette plus a couple of others i've been grokking.........decisions,decisions......lol. *NM*
• Is the front sub-frame on a 1969 Mustang welded to the floor pans like on a MOPAR A, B and E body, or is it bolted on like a 1970's Camaro and Firebird ? *NM*
  • AFAIK the Mustang and its older brothers Falcon & Comet all have their subframe,inner guards & front crossmember spot welded together & to the firewall & floor, suspenion parts & gearbox mount are bolt-ons. *NM*
  • Andy is correct about the Fords (everything welded) but aren't the Mopars bolted on (except the A-bodies)? *NM*
    • Yes, the B- E- subframes are 'stuffed' into place from beneath...
      • Depends on how you define “subframe”. The “frame rails” on Mopars were welded to the unitized body structure. The “K frame” was essentially an engine cradle that bolted on from below. In the model car world, we would want to paint the K frame black and the
        • Period Mustang assembly line photo
          • Filming turned the place inside out -first and last time three lovely women would skitter around an assembly plant full of admiring men *NM*
        • 100% correct. Refer to any of Scott Ligget's recent Mopar builds. He's doing them correctly. *NM*
      • The bolt-on subframe was something GM was messing with since the mid-Fifties...
• What is the make and year of this pickup truck ? .......... *PIC* .....
  • Well, its a Studebaker! what year, I don't know! *NM*
  • Re:'49 to '53 Studebaker 2R5 puckup...My brother and I have a '53 that we restored years ago (PICS)
    • That is a beauty! *NM*
    • Great looking truck. They are very cool! *NM*
    • have always liked this model of Studebaker pickup....here in Oz the few that were imported are now looked as larger versions of the 1948-56 Holden Ute which had a similar shape & style....lol. *NM*
• Another quick build. PICs This was all but done when I got it. Fresh paint and here it is.
  • That just brings a big ol' grin to my face!!! BTW... You're crankin' out all of these super cool builds, almost as fast as Frankie! 😁 *NM*
  • It does bring a smile. I keep getting these kits from one of my club members and they are so easy to finish and I can't find a job so 8 to 10 a day at the work bench gets a lot done. *NM*
  • One of my favorite AMT's. Looks good! *NM*
    • Thanks! *NM*
• I was searching for a particular pic and ran across an album from a few years ago. I don't think I ever posted pics here. So enjoy! PIC *LINK*
  • Terry.......thanks for the pic, after just finishing the Bantam Blast Altered that pic is just what I need...lol.......now where did I put the Wild Willie kit?.....lol. *NM*
    • Glad to be of assistance! *NM*
• Help! Has anyone built the Revell 57 Chevy Pro Sportsman. PICs
  • How does the other glass fit? Maybe you've got the glass from the '55 kit? *NM*
    • That could very possibly be what happened. I got this from a club member that passed and a lot of the kits have parts missing and mixed. *NM*
  • I built one when those kits first came out in the 90s(?).... My memory is that everything just fell together. Zero issues.....
    • I got this from a club member that passed and a lot of his kits are missing or mixed parts. *NM*
      • My suspicion then, is that what you have is a stock 57 windshield... The Softseal 57 Pro Mod, that the kit originally replicated, featured a body that was 7/8 scale as compared to stock... It was a very radical race car for it's time.. *NM*
        • With all the rivets, it sure isn't "stock". *NM*
          • Looking at it on my phone, honestly can't see any rivets *NM*
            • They are hard to see so I think it is from the 55 Pro Sportsman. *NM*
              • That windshield actually looks like it belongs to the Tom McEwen 57 Chevy Funny Car. *NM*
                • It very well could. Someone said it could be from the 55. The guy that passed had both and l am contacting the other club member that took the 55 to have him check his. It could be a simple swap. *NM*
                • The McEwen kit being 1/24 scale, it looks like the same piece but larger. I believe the 1:1 funny car body was based on the Pro Sportsman body *NM*
              • Terry let me look in my parts box of that kit I may have a windshield for you. Give me an hour or so. *NM*
                • Take your time. I'm still trying get in touch with the other guy. *NM*
                  • I looked in my box and I found the windows and parts to the 57 but these don't have rivets. I'll send them and if it works great if not keep them. I'm sure I still have your address unless you moved recently. *NM*
                    • We're still here but wait until l hearfrom the guy with the 55. He is in my local.club *NM*
• When building a model car where you have to install the windshield from the outside, what glue/adhesive do you use that dries invisible? I've tried Deco Art Media Liquid Glass Clear, but it dries too shiny, I can see it. I need something invisible. Thanks. *NM*
  • I use ModPoge on the inside and it's glossy. I just spread some "matte" ModPoge to see if it dries flat. I'll advise after it dries. As you know, a lot of matte products aren't truly flat. *NM*
  • I use this. Dries rock hard and crystal clear. *NM* *PIC*
    • Do you apply it over the entire window frame or just the 4 corners or ..... ? The liquid glass that I use in the 4 corners dries clear but is too shiny when it dries. The windshield looks like it's held in with 4 diamonds. I can see it in all 4 corners. It's not invisible. *NM*
      • I first just 'tack' the window in place with two or three very small drops. When that sets I'll add more. I use a toothpick to apply as carefully as I can. *NM*
        • OK. How do you add more drops of adhesive after the window is tacked into place? I don't understand. How do you get the additional drops between the window and the body? *NM*
          • My bad. I miss understood your original question. When the window fits from the outside I try very hard to lay small drops in the channel that the window fits in. It's very much a learning process. *NM*
  • After drying, the ModPoge "matte" is flat but not 100% crystal clear like their Gloss product. *NM*
• Thank you all for the comments and compliments and my green 1971 Charger posted below. ALSO thank you for the comments and compliments on my pink 1970 Duster build awhile back. All of those posts are greatly appreciated. Thanks again. *NM*
• Question. This pic is from an orig 1970 Duster 340. What is the green sticker next to the fender tag? I have several of these on a sheet from Ray's Decals. I want to make more. What Dodge/Plymouth bodies and years were these green stickers used on please? ....*PIC*...
  • Emissions decals. Look above halfway down this page… *NM* *LINK*
    • Perfect answer. Thank you John. *NM*
• John......just when I thought your pics from a few days ago couldn't be bettered...........you post more..........truly wonderful pics....... many thanks. *NM*
• I'm wondering if any of you know if there might be 1/24th scale '39-'40 Chevy 6 lug wheels available anywhere?
  • I'd take a look at the Galaxie/Moebius '47 Chevy. 1/25 scale, but might work *NM*
    • Had the Galaxie kit handy. They're 6 lug, but have that flange around the perimeter. *NM*
    • Mark, do you think they would better than the '41 Chevy Pickup? *NM*
      • The pickup wheels might be better. For tires, maybe try the old Monogram tires with separate whitewall inserts (the taller 1/24 scale ones) *NM*
  • Can't find my 41 Chev kit but checked the Rev 37 Ford P/u which I think has the same tyres as the 41 Chev, the Galaxie 48 Chev wheels fit the 37 Ford tyres, that lip around the rim is on the inside & could be cut off,also the 48 Chev tyres are much smaller & not really truck
  • Bob...after some consideration I'd think the Revell 37 Ford & hopefully 41 Chev tyres with the Galaxie rims would look better than the 48 Chev which seem to be more of a modern low profile radial type of tyre, the Rev 37 Ford/41 Chev(?) are more old style crossplies. *NM*
    • Thanks guys. I did compare the wheels and tires on the '41 Chev PU and they look pretty good under the fenders of the '39 SD. I also have a set of 3d printed artillery wheels which look nice but I think are more appropriate for a mid-30's Chev. Next to look at is the engine! *NM*
      • If those 1/25 engines look a little small try the Monogram 1953 Chev kit, its 1/24th & is essentially the same Stove Bolt 6 as used in 1939, maybe with a changed aircleaner, the 19 extra cubes,235/216 won't show in 1/24 scale.....lol. *NM*
        • Unfortunately both it and the '53 Corvette engine have Powerglide transmissions. AMT '37 Chevy might work *NM*
          • Yeh, but couldn't the Powerslide be unbolted using a razor saw.....sorry......I'll go sit back in my corner now.....lol. *NM*
• Rebuild not new build...... *PIC*
  • Cool build. Love the ambiguous motto. Can be said it a cheery happy tone or in an intimidating gruff voice for folks than dare to complain. ;^) *NM*
  • Neat resto Dave. I have one or two I'd like to build as well. *NM*
• Getting caught up.........2026 builds..... *PIC*
  • That beast has Character!! *NM*
  • Amazing what can be done! *NM*
• New build. 1971 Dodge Charger R/T 440 six pack painted J6 Green Go. .......... *PICS* .....
  • Dang! You can make them look like they have been in a speedway pile up OR like they are freshly detailed for the dealer's showroom! *NM*
  • Super nice! *NM*
  • Another big time winner. Love the underhood detailing. *NM*
  • Beauty! Great pics too. That colour really benefits from the dark background. *NM*
  • Re:Great job and color choice!!! *NM*
  • Very nice, Scott.... The white interior really pops with that green!!!! *NM*
  • Very cool! *NM*
  • Another goodie Scott! Nice "Chahga"! *NM*
  • sharp build *NM*
• Late 60's top line Altered class was AA/FA...anyone know of a kit with this logo, ideally in white....lol......even Slixx doesn't appear to have it, nor does the WW Borsch T Altered......am I dreaming?.....AA/FA did exist didn't it?.........lol. *NM*
  • I'm pretty sure the Borsch car had the class lettering (very small) on the wing. Not much room left on those T or Bantam bodies after the contingency decals and car name are added! *NM*
    • Nah, the Borsch sheet only has the car # 808 for the wing tho' the box top # is 765...I'll recheck Slixx, just want the class listing & will use a couple of contingences decals, have even thought about using a fine white pen to do my own, tho' maybe not...lol. *NM*
      • Andy, do you have access to the Slixx website??? Check under the "Goody Minis" category. They list several sheets, in both white and gold leaf, that contain only lettering to allow the builder to create their own class designation markings.... *PIC*
        • Marty,Marty...what would I do without you...lol..have never checked that Goodys Mini site on the website...duh..just did,how dumb am I..lol..thanks Mate...finished the Bantam & it looks a little naked without some decals,hopefully they'll arrive B$ the July show..lol... *NM*
  • Slixx, on one of their miscellaneous drag racing contingency decal sheets, includes a bunch of letters and slash marks that allow you to create whatever class designation you want. *NM*
  • They still make rub-on lettering (a.k.a. "Letraset"). I've even seen tiny ones for model railroading, by Woodland Scenics. *NM*
    • Thanks Bill..I thought of those, tho' it looks like Slixx has what I need now after Marty put me straight on where to look..lol..just rang them but it was after 10am here,7pm in Georgia so had to leave a message, will give them a buzz early my time tomorrow....thanks guys. *NM*
      • Just had a win talking to Becky at Slixx, verry helpful, whilst no AA/FA there is enough letters etc to satisfy anal Andy plus various other sheets to keep me amused...all good..thanks guys. *NM*
    • Woodland makes most of it these days. Its main uses were for architectural models and laying out advertising and other print items, all of those users have moved on to other methods and don't use transfers anymore *NM*
      • Maybe they are not manufactured currently, but they are still sold on eBay, Amazon, etc... *NM*
        • But the selection is getting thin (unfortunately). Watch out for partially used sheets, unless you want a bunch of "Z", "X", "Q", and punctuation marks *NM*
• Some really fine rides on display. Thanks for sharing your pics John. Some of those cars seem like they were new just recently, but then I do the math after remembering their model years... sigh... LOL *NM*
• I've been to curbside car shows in Wellesley and Waltham, MA and I'm a bit ambivalent on the concept. They feel more difficult to photograph cars well. *NM*
• I go to the Concours in Beverly and the spectator fee is even higher. *NM*
• I'm diggin that -very cool *NM*
• 13 years ago! WOW! Where does the time go? JeffH and I went to the show then. We only live about 20 miles away. *NM*
• In case anyone is interested, The story of the rise ans fall (and rise??) of Revell. *NM* *LINK*
  • Thanks David, a good tho' heart retching explanation of the collapse of Revell/Monogram.........made me a liitle sad, so I picked up a tube of glue, my trusty hobby knife.........& started wacking plastic......ah, life is good...lol.....thanks. *NM*
  • That was interesting *NM*
  • It was interesting but it was only 14 or so minutes and could have been extended considerably. And his constant switching from Re'vel to Rev el' was kind of annoying. *NM*
• Your 3rd PIC...the black Caddy conv. takes my breath away. *NM*