Messages In This Thread

• No luck w/ Fusion Firm Chrome. I brushed these 3D door handles from Iceman w/ Fusion Firm and they came out very dull. The surface of the door handles is rough. Is that why they came out dull silver? I'm not happy w/ the results. .......... *PIC* .....
  • I suspect it's just like any other paint. If the underlying surface is rough, the end result will be rough as well. Painting with primer and then wet-sanding until smooth is the answer, just like on bodywork. *NM*
  • Needs a glossy surface.....I love results then..... *NM*
  • That's not going to work anyhow.
    • I hold your abilities in high regard Charlie, so let me offer a little nugget of advice on the Chrome "paints"
      • Bring it on. I always appreciate benefiting from the research of others. Anything that you could post would help many, I’m sure. *NM*
      • Would letting the pieces sit for 3-4days also work, if you don't have a dehydrator? *NM*
        • If these are resin or #D printed, I'd try putting ONE in the dehydrator. Chances are it'll be ruined by the heat. *NM*
          • You are correct, you should always try on scrap spare parts. However, my dehydrator doesn't have a temp control, i did install a thermometer and it consistently sits at 150. I've never had a problem with damaged resin or 3D parts *NM*
            • You are playing with the fates, there. That's way too hot IMO.
              • 90°F is the MAXIMUM temperatue I'd expose styrene to in a dehydrator. Resins, even less. 3D parts... I have no clue. *NM*
                • Acrylics dry before the coffve is cold in a DH, and that alone is a pretty good reason to invest in one
                • I keep mine at 110°... Never a single issue with warpage, or any other negative issues. *NM*
                  • Be real careful with the already-soft at room temperature AMT grey plastic from the '90s. *NM*
        • The longer those paints sit the more durable they become. *NM*
  • As mentioned by others, smooth surface to start with and adequate drying time are key. In my experimenting Ive found the revell chrom is a bit more forgiving when, after drying , using spaztix clear to protect it as it holds the shine better then the Fusion Chrome seems to. *PIC*
    • Dull or cloudy might be OK, for parts that aren't necessarily supposed to be chrome, like grills. *PIC*
      • Si, depends what it is youre trying to replicate, in this case Im referring to if you are looking for a chrome appearance, lotsa other options if thats not what you are going for-also, one clarification, the Torino parts tree is for comparison purposes to the spoon "chrome"