As mentioned by others, smooth surface to start with and adequate drying time are key. In my experimenting Ive found the revell chrom is a bit more forgiving when, after drying , using spaztix clear to protect it as it holds the shine better then the Fusion Chrome seems to. *PIC*

In Response To: No luck w/ Fusion Firm Chrome. I brushed these 3D door handles from Iceman w/ Fusion Firm and they came out very dull. The surface of the door handles is rough. Is that why they came out dull silver? I'm not happy w/ the results. .......... *PIC* ..... ()

Ive also used the clear coat that comes with the Fusion and find that it slightly dulls and clouds the chrome effect a bit- so , for me, Revell Chrom with spaztix clear is my first choice and the fusion for interior detail stuff or items that dont see alot of handling once assembled....Ive posted this before but this is the Revell Chrom with the spaztix clear after letting the revell dry for 24 hrs then shooting the spaztix

Messages In This Thread

No luck w/ Fusion Firm Chrome. I brushed these 3D door handles from Iceman w/ Fusion Firm and they came out very dull. The surface of the door handles is rough. Is that why they came out dull silver? I'm not happy w/ the results. .......... *PIC* .....
- I suspect it's just like any other paint. If the underlying surface is rough, the end result will be rough as well. Painting with primer and then wet-sanding until smooth is the answer, just like on bodywork. *NM*
- Needs a glossy surface.....I love results then..... *NM*
- That's not going to work anyhow.
  - I hold your abilities in high regard Charlie, so let me offer a little nugget of advice on the Chrome "paints"
    - Bring it on. I always appreciate benefiting from the research of others. Anything that you could post would help many, I’m sure. *NM*
    - Would letting the pieces sit for 3-4days also work, if you don't have a dehydrator? *NM*
      - If these are resin or #D printed, I'd try putting ONE in the dehydrator. Chances are it'll be ruined by the heat. *NM*
        
        You are correct, you should always try on scrap spare parts. However, my dehydrator doesn't have a temp control, i did install a thermometer and it consistently sits at 150. I've never had a problem with damaged resin or 3D parts *NM*
        
        You are playing with the fates, there. That's way too hot IMO.
        
        90°F is the MAXIMUM temperatue I'd expose styrene to in a dehydrator. Resins, even less. 3D parts... I have no clue. *NM*
      - The longer those paints sit the more durable they become. *NM*
- As mentioned by others, smooth surface to start with and adequate drying time are key. In my experimenting Ive found the revell chrom is a bit more forgiving when, after drying , using spaztix clear to protect it as it holds the shine better then the Fusion Chrome seems to. *PIC*