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The longer those paints sit the more durable they become. *NM*
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Would letting the pieces sit for 3-4days also work, if you don't have a dehydrator? *NM*
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No luck w/ Fusion Firm Chrome. I brushed these 3D door handles from Iceman w/ Fusion Firm and they came out very dull. The surface of the door handles is rough. Is that why they came out dull silver? I'm not happy w/ the results. .......... *PIC* .....
I suspect it's just like any other paint. If the underlying surface is rough, the end result will be rough as well. Painting with primer and then wet-sanding until smooth is the answer, just like on bodywork. *NM*
Needs a glossy surface.....I love results then..... *NM*
That's not going to work anyhow.
I hold your abilities in high regard Charlie, so let me offer a little nugget of advice on the Chrome "paints"
Bring it on. I always appreciate benefiting from the research of others. Anything that you could post would help many, I’m sure. *NM*
Would letting the pieces sit for 3-4days also work, if you don't have a dehydrator? *NM*
If these are resin or #D printed, I'd try putting ONE in the dehydrator. Chances are it'll be ruined by the heat. *NM*
You are correct, you should always try on scrap spare parts. However, my dehydrator doesn't have a temp control, i did install a thermometer and it consistently sits at 150. I've never had a problem with damaged resin or 3D parts *NM*
You are playing with the fates, there. That's way too hot IMO.
90°F is the MAXIMUM temperatue I'd expose styrene to in a dehydrator. Resins, even less. 3D parts... I have no clue. *NM*
The longer those paints sit the more durable they become. *NM*
As mentioned by others, smooth surface to start with and adequate drying time are key. In my experimenting Ive found the revell chrom is a bit more forgiving when, after drying , using spaztix clear to protect it as it holds the shine better then the Fusion Chrome seems to. *PIC*
