Second is direct light that puts the shadows in all the wrong places. Together, they cause the images to look orange and blurry, never seeming to capture what your eye sees at the show table or on your workbench. LED isn't a lot better.

Natural light is best when you can access it.

In the meantime, for the best pictures, you will need a mini-studio setup that can let you move and manipulate indirect light, a portable light stand with a bulb of know "kelvin", a quality SLR camera (not a cheapie point-and-shoot that you take on vacation) that will let you manually adjust shutter speed, ISO and aperture. With the advent of digital, the cameras that critics raved about five years ago are now relatively affordable for the average guy.

The phone is so easy to use, we have defaulted to it, but an app that gives you easy manual adjustment of those factors is a better choice.

Tim Boyd ( who really has this down ) and others can give you much more help than I can. While my late father was a photography freek, it was all to mathematical for my noggin to process. If you are on FB or the MCM board, there are modelers who have photography of their subjects down to a science, and are usually generous with their advice and help.