Messages In This Thread

• Not a comment on this particular model but have you guys ever seen a 1" pipe between the cowl and radiator like this on a 1:1? *NM* *PIC*
  • I can't say that I have, Frods normally have a pair of radiator support rods, tho' a single one could be used if the firewall & radiator brackets were changed to suit, that kit one equates to 1" purely the result of tooling limitations I suppose. *NM*
  • I took it out of the 3W coupe that I did, and substituted the two angled supports as on a stock '32. That setup just looked like a towel bar to me *NM*
    • LOL.... Now I will never be able to not see that every time I see one of those.... Never understood why Revell chose to do it that way *NM*
      • That setup may have been on one of the cars Revell's people looked at...
        • Used straight wire on this one I built at 13; you can just see it poking out of the interior. *NM* *PIC*
  • This is Revell's miserable answer to the two radiator support rods that were originally on the early fords, at least '28 to '32. They were too cheap. or dumb, to do it right. Hate it. *NM*
    • Also, neither of Revell's Model A kits have any radiator support rods at all. I think they need to get into another line of business. Sad. *NM*
      • FYI, Revell's '29 pickup and '31 sedan have radiator supports...ASSEMBLY PAGES INSIDE
        • Those have/had 100% stock versions, so that's expected. Neither have gas, brake, or clutch pedals! *NM*
          • You're preaching to the choir Mark *NM*
    • C'mon people. We're modelers - if we don't like something, we fix it! It's plastic so we can make it do what we want! 😁 *NM*
      • There is a bit of complaining on this board about various kit bodies that have the wrong profile, fender wheel openings and etc. Just thought I'd throw in my own particular gripe. I do fix my my Revell models. *NM*
      • Carnac says….”May you be gifted with a huge collection of Palmer kits from a long lost family member”. lol!. *NM*
        • Can't be him...he didn't mention "your sister" or "a weird holy man" *NM*
    • They are so out of scale when molded in plastic, why bother? You can easily make them. Get some .020 or .030 diameter stainless steel tubing (or even "piano wire") and have at it. You could use some thin slices of wire insulation painted silver for the little flange on each
  • I thought it was a curtain rod. *NM*
    • Possibly a shower curtain rod? One size fits all. *NM*
  • AMT's underated '32 Phantom Vicky has a correct pair of radiator support rods, & as mentioned "we" ARE modellers so adding them is not that difficult....thank you Revell for all your efforts. *NM*
  • The moment we say we haven't, it'll pop up at a show next weekend. I figure, bonus piece of round stock, then pull out the piano wire or guitar string *NM*
    • or stainless steel rod if you've got a hard wire cutter *NM*
  • Well....The guy could be a plumber and all he had was some 1 1/2" supply line........
    • Just watch...now we'll be seeing rat rods with water pipe between the cowl and radiator. Goes with the saw blades and rebar! *NM*
      • LOL, and old camshaft frame spreaders on the front! *NM*
  • This is just a guess but two reasons.....
  • I'm a big fan of guitar strings for radiator braces... *PIC*
    • You can also use stainless steel rod--need hard wire cutters, though...PIC
    • Wow, those are both very nice and yes the guitar strings are a nice touch. *NM*
    • What size (or what ever) to ask for? *NM*
      • Jim, I use .019 " stainless steel mostly--a little bigger or smaller will look OK also--eyeball it. Detail Associates (HO stuff) or Albion Alloy Metals carries this stuff (no competitor of Dawn & Matt). *NM*
        • OK, thanks for the info...got some. *NM*
    • That 29 is absolutely perfect. It looks like you're used the big E string. I hope you used a tuner before settling it in. :) *NM*