Message Index

• DURING MY HIATIUS... these last few weeks is because I've been taking advantage of the mild weather to move these along. PIX and thanks for looking
• GOT THESE.... In the mail yesterday. Looking like really nice pieces. PIX and thanks for looking
  • I've had all three of those in my cart for quite awhile. Freeman Cars has a good reputation for casting. *NM*
• BACK ON FOR NOW.... I cut the front opening out and repositioned them forward. PIX and thanks for looking
• Here's one I'd like to see Revell or Moebius tackle. 1948 (?) Studebaker M5. *PIC*
  • Oh that would be nice! *NM*
• I just heard that So Cal modeler Mike Alvarez passed away. *NM*
• On a more serious note - PayPal consult needed
  • If it's a scammer.....PP gives you your $$$ back......so risk is pretty low..... *NM*
    • One caveat to that, be sure to use “goods and services” if you choose “friends and family “ PayPal won’t cover you if scam *NM*
      • Wanted to use F+F vs. G+S - too many spidey senses going off *NM*
        • ...Unless you know the seller personally or have a friend who has done business with them, NEVER PAY WITH F&F..... *NM*
          • Why would a total stranger go out of their way to request that you use F&F, even though they get their money regardless? The scammers will fight to the death trying to sucker you into it *NM*
• Testing 1-2-3
  • seems to work Bill. *NM*
  • I saw your post Bob. *NM*
    • Thanks to all - we had a two second blackout here, but all is good now. *NM*
• OK, I received my first 3D model kit this week...and I have Questions, Boy, do I have questions...
  • If you received "sticky" parts, more inside
  • Some answers
  • I have limited experience with 3D printed parts, mostly wheels and a few engine kits. First thing, do not soak the parts in anything. The engine kit I did that on turned mushy and deformed. Fortunately, the parts eventually dried and went back to their original shape. I now
    • Turned out well. My Boy Scout Troop leader had a Studebaker pickup of that generation in the '50s. He was a great guy and we all had some great times. Thanks for the memory jolt! *NM*
  • Further note/clarification Brandon's right you parts should never arrive sticky. The post print clearing should total clean the parts before the UV cure process. *NM*
  • I use Gunze Mr. Hobby Surfacer (primer) on everything. Comes in black, grey, red oxide, white, and mahogany. The grey 1500 Surfacer is as thin as air brush coats. Hotter than Tamiya, lays down like a dream. Spendy & hard to find, though. *NM*
  • OK, thanx a bunch Guys.....
    • Here's a shot of my first 3D kit and what convinced me to get a printer. *LINK* *PIC*
      • Thats an awesome truck, can i ask what chassis you used under it? *NM*
        • I used the Revel Foose F-100 for everything. Chassis, interior, & Engine. *NM*
  • Cleaning it with IPA is only half the solution...
• OFF THE BENCH...Since I couldn't clear the Demon yesterday and kind of a stop on that this Chevelle was calling my name. PIX and thanks for looking
  • I like the simple clean look on this. The wheel set is just enough. *NM*
  • Nice! I like the color. I knew a guy who had a 71 or 72, don't remember. It was very much like that car, but his was the Heavy Chevy version. Neat build.
• A little progress on my Model A Vicky.... *PIC*
  • Looks good Marty. I'm leaning toward a break from RC trucks and building some of the 20 projects I've got painted. *NM*
  • Re: looking good *NM*
  • Fun looking at your projects in the background. ... *NM*
  • Re: A little progress on my Model A Vicky....That already has a cool factor of 100!
    • It sure does! *NM*
  • Where did the Vicky body come from? *NM*
    • An eBay seller, that pops out some pretty cool and unique offerings.
  • Looks like WTF has reopened! *NM*
  • Model A Vicky is shaping up nicely. However, what's going on with the AMC in the background? Promo, kit, or resin? Plans? *NM*
• For you MOPAR folks with race cars: Check out the Dodge coe truck and flat bed race car hauler trailer in the Spotlight ad at the top of the board. I have not seen that combo configuration before, but maybe just did not notice them. Were those common? *NM*
  • Bill, I don't know how common that combination was in 1:1 but Lindberg reissued that IMC truck & trailer combo maybe 10-12 yrs ago, both with & without their 1940 Ford Coupe, not sure whether the enclosed front on the trailer & ramps were part of the Lindberg kits tho'. *NM*
    • Thanks for the info. I was just curious since I do not think I have ever seen a flatbed trailer that high above the wheels and ground used as a car hauler. Looks like the ramp would have to be pretty long to avoid high centering when trying to get on it. *NM*
      • Kind of overkill for hauling a car. And yeah, the ramps would be long, and heavy, and a real pain to deal with. *NM*
  • TV Tommy had something similar........ *PIC*
  • BTW, a guy in Germany was doing the IVO tow rig, complete with dragster and Corvette! *NM* *LINK*
    • Holy scratch build!!! Amazing work. *NM*
      • Its not bad is it......lol......makes you want to try stamp collecting instead of model building....really amazing work & the diorama is the perfect finish to it. *NM*
  • IMC issued that combo with the Chaparral 2G kit added
    • Yes, not a Lola , my bad! *NM*
• From my "Floats my Boat" file *NM* *PIC*
  • Nice! I hafta ask though, what's the big light under the driver's headlight for? *NM*
    • looks! *NM*
    • High speed night driving. Standard headlights not bright enough. "deer spotter" ;^) *NM*
    • I have seen a light like that connected to the steering to see while turning *NM*
  • I have decided that what I'd really like in my driveway is a late '30s Packard lowrider..... *NM* *PIC*
    • Yeah, I wouldn’t mind that car in my driveway either. *NM*
• OT: A Message From Steve
  • ⬆️⬆️⬆️ Video in above post ⬆️⬆️⬆️ *NM*
  • Great news! *NM*
  • Glad you're feeling much better. Get well soon. *NM*
• Thanks for the kind words guys! Those pictures were probably taken in the early-mid 80's. My friend Bill loved the model and that made me happy too! *NM*
• I hope that I'm allowed to post this. I'm sorry Matt and Dawn if I'm not allowed. Harts Parts has a couple of parts for the new Demon coming out. A dual snorkel hood scoop and a six pack hood. The hood is deigned for the original kit I think, .......... *PICS* .....
  • I ordered the duel snorkel scoop couple of days ago to go with my first build (post below). *NM*
  • Arn't these the same parts they've been selling for years? *NM*
    • Yes. I just wanted to make people aware of these parts if they've never known about them. *NM*
• I'm researching Richard Petty's 68 Plymouth. Every pic that I found shows the RR hood except 1, I think. Does this look like a standard Satellite hood? Also, was the 404 CI engine based on the wedge engine? .......... *PIC* .....
  • The 404 was a destroked Hemi... *LINK*
  • I’m looking forward to seeing what you build for that ‘68 car, Scott. Throughout the fall, I built his ‘60,’62,’63,’64,’65,’69,’70, and a couple ‘70s rides. I hit a wall with the ‘61. And I’m still trying to figure out the chassis for his ‘67-‘68 *NM*
    • Dan, if you need the body for the 1961, Vics Resins makes a 1961 stock Plymouth kit. You can buy it from SMH, (Southern Motorsport Hobbies.) *NM*
      • I’ve bought a few resin pieces from SMH, including a Mustang body. To say that I was less than impressed is putting it nicely. Thanks though ! *NM*
  • Can't wait to see this one done. I've been a Petty fan for a very long time, and prefer pre Winston Cup cars. The dark siders, weren't they called by someone here?...... ..... *NM*
    • Think the term "dark siders" originated with the late Luke'57, as he built a lot of pre-'71 NASCARs. His brother 'Gator' built mostly post-'71 (Winston Cup) racers. *NM*
  • That looks like a standard Satellite hood to me. In the middle of it, I think i can faintly see the outline of the depressed detail from the standard hood. *NM*
    • Thanks Bill, I'm thinking that I'm seeing the same depression. I'm going to build that car. Harts Parts makes that hood. *NM*
      • Go for it! I’m pretty sure i saw pics of another ‘68- perhaps the Friedkin Enterprises #14- race with that hood also. *NM*
  • Looks like it, standard intentions in the hood, I think *NM*
• A WHILE BACK....I told us that I pickup a Pen-Pal sharing projects, stories, pictures, etc... Dave (Krone) sent me this batch of pictures and I asked if I can post them. PIX and thanks for looking
  • "Hey Newbomb, where's your El Camino?" 🤣 *NM*
    • That's the direction Dave was going with but the hood started to swell around the edge. He's going to try to repair it. *NM*
  • The air cleaner on the Elky looks intriguing... *NM*
    • I believe that came from the 70 Pro street Super Bee . *NM*
  • Lovin' them all, but the red Chevy II is my favorite!!! *NM*
• HIT A BIG WEATHER WALL.... Snow coming down pretty hard expecting the plowing service and I don't have it in me to pull the car out for one clear coat. PIX and thanks for looking
  • Lookin' great! Yep, summer's definitely over... *NM* *PIC*
• Great info, great PIX. Thanks so much, John. *NM*
• MPC Miss Mighty Mopar, Judy Lilly
  • The Super Stock Darts had no rear seat, I would assume Barracudas would not either. Not sure about the roll bar, but I would guess those cars were fast enough to require one *NM*
    • Buckets for race cars were A100 van seats IIRC. Light and cheap. *NM*
  • I'm not lucky enough to have the '68 version of the MPC Barracuda, but the 1/1 that year offered a rocker panel molding that was smooth for about 4/5 of the length, with the remaining rear 1/5 having a molded in louver or pseudo exhaust outlet effect....pretty rare on the
    • You won't see it on most cars. And probably never on a drag car. *NM* *PIC*
    • Spot on!
  • I'm not sure on the kit roll bar, lots of cars of the time had the 3 piece hoop style
  • Re: MPC Miss Mighty Mopar, Judy Lilly here's a magazine article with a decent interior shot *NM* *PIC*
  • Re: MPC Miss Mighty Mopar, Judy Lilly here are a couple of other photos that suggest that car had no roll bar
    • The SS/BA pics are very early, those cars got a lot faster over the years with rules changes and evolution in general *NM*
  • Back in the early days of SAE (also in the Best of vol 1 book and the first DVD), Bill Coulter did a good how-to on the Super Stock Barracudas, that may help you in general *NM*
    • Yes, I dug out that issue (#18) and there's a lot of good info there. *NM*
  • Thanks for the input & info, all!! *NM*
• Excellent of you to build your friend a replica of his '70 Camaro RS 350. You did it very well and I am sure he appreciated it. I feel pretty sure of it because I got a used bare bones '70 Z28 in late '71 and drove until 1984 and I loved it. Those were really fun cars. *NM*
• I am surprised they did not use the taillights style for the front grille, too. Rectangular box headlights with turn signals next to them and mesh behind the vertical bars would make a nice phantom build. The head lights could even be hidden with upward rotating panels like
  • Well, that would have required tooling, and a bunch of new parts. The Demon was a Plymouth Duster with a Dodge Dart front end on it. Quick and cheap way to create a different car. *NM*
  • Rectangular headlights weren't legal on U.S. vehicles in 1970. The Feds finally Oked them for '76.
    • I did not think of that. It still could be an idea for a custom model car build, though. *NM*
      • There was some usage of rectangular lights from Marchal or Cibie, in the early to mid '70s, on some showcars and customs. *NM*
• Has anybody figured out a way to paint a body so that it looks like bare steel, with all the sanding swirls and such on it? Thanks. *NM*
  • I've thought about experimenting with Bare Metal foil, a fine steel wool and VERY light pressure. *NM*
  • Ticklish as all get out, but...
  • At 1/25th scale, you'd never see the scratches. Just paint it with whatever(?) has replaced the Testors Metalizers. *NM*
    • Never tried this, but what about chrome spray topped with dullcoat? Not sure about the swirl marks though - maybe experiment with various polishing compounds? Sounds like there will be some trial and error involved either way.. *NM*
  • I have a mental picture of the airplane fuselage on display in the LHS that shows the various metal finishes in the Alclad line. *NM*
  • I've heard of folks adding a "grain" to BMF after applying it - light sanding in one direction or another ...
  • For a single panel(‘32 Ford louvered trunk lid) I foiled it and then black-washed the foil. It isn’t perfect, but you can see it if you squint. *NM*
  • Back in the last century I tried a technique to represent bare metal body. I never did dull coat my experiment....PICS..... *LINK*
    • I'd say that looks pretty darn good. That stuff still available??.. *NM*
      • Jim, there's a link to website in my post. It's been a long time since my purchase. Maybe give the website a try.😎 *NM*
    • Sorry...didn't see that. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks. *NM*
      • Jim, it is still available. I ordered some from them, with a Mustang body conversion kit, a few months ago. Haven't tried the powder yet and the body kit is on a lengthy project list. 😏 *NM*
• All right!! *NM*
• Cool ride Terry!! *NM*
• And there's at least one in there that seems to have a '72 grille and '71 badging. *NM*
• Galaxie Geekery - again... '64 Modified Stocker
  • Good info. Lots of possibilities here. *NM*
    • And I forgot to mention the A-Brothers custom (IIRC) parts, of which most are on the tree somewhere
• Finished the foil work on my '67 Riviera annual , ,[PICS]
  • Crispy!!!! *NM*
  • Nice...I always thought that was one of the better styled cars of that era. Almpost looks custom straight from the factory. Need to get mine finished. *NM*
  • great work on the foil! *NM*
  • both paint and chrome trim look t-riff! IMHO, the '67 Riviera design was the very peak for the nameplate; Steve, yours is really doing that justice! TB *NM*
  • Wow Steve, that's some fine BMF work... *NM*
  • Really nice BMF work....re the Riviera styling, both it & the Toronado use the same basic body shell, taking nothing away from the Riv tho' but I prefer the Toro but either one in 1:1 scale would keep me happy...clean crisp mid 60's design. *NM*
  • Wow, that's precision in applying foil! *NM*
  • Very nice, clean foil work Steve! *NM*
  • Looks wet.... Nothing better than a good foiling *NM*
  • Nicely done! I fear for my sanity when I attempt all the bright work on my current project. *NM*
  • Beautifully done Steve! Extra work on the foundation really pays off in seeing the foil come out so smooth. *NM*
  • Nice work! Don’t forget the door handles and the key locks. *NM*
    • I won't Mike. I always do the door handles with chrome paint and I have a PE set with lock. Thing is, I forgot to put the divot for the lock back in the trunk lid when I repaired the glue damage. LOL *NM*
      • Maybe drill a small hole with pin vise, insert tiny plastic rod from Evergreen and then paint chrome silver….might fix it. I think I remember doing something like that on an old glue bomb once. *NM*
        • I'll just use the PF part on it. It really should have been countersunk a bit but it'll be fine, I think. *NM* *PIC*
• Did the exhaust on the pickup , , *PIC*
• Now there are some model projects for sure! *NM*
• You did good Bob! *NM*
• Looking good! *NM*
• Nice work - those Camaros are cool no matter how you look at them :-) *NM*
• Nice ! I built the Testors Mustang (2 of them) and the Revell Bandit metal TA - both great kits!
  • Sorry - - I meant the wheels on the AMC car. *NM*
• You are more than welcome :-) Those look pretty good ! *NM*
• Maybe an interesting project for the truck builders. *NM* *LINK*
  • Looks like a nightmare to drive *NM*
• Monster I saw on the road the other day.*PICS*
  • Are you kidding me!?!?!? *NM*
• For those of you who have used the new Revell Chrome spray, a quick tutorial if you would! Thanks. *NM*
  • What would you like to know, David? My experience has been simply, step #1 point, step #2 shoot. *NM*
    • Sounds easy enough. Just wondered if there was anything special I needed to know. *NM*
    • Didn't mean to hit post just yet.... Additional information......
      • I have some resin Cragars from Fireball that I'll try. Gave them a good scrubbing so we should be good to go....fingers crossed! *NM*
      • Also, let it dry for at least a couple days before handling. ,, a couple weeks would be even better but I understand most people don't take as long to build a model as I do. , , also, I'm experimenting with Pledge as a clearcoat for it right now as a couple have said , ,
        • Just painted them. The builds they are for are at least a month or two away. *NM*
        • I've heard that Tamiya acrylic clear gloss works great but haven't tried it personally. *NM*
          • I tried brushing some X-22 gloss strait from the bottle and instant medium metallic grey. , , It dulled the finish as soon as it hit the part. *NM*
  • Don't need primer--clean the part--psi & nozzle are different than other hobby sprays. Higher pressure--hold can about 12" - 14" away. MOST IMPORTANT--make multiple, QUICK passes *NM*
    • wait for the layer to settle down before next pass--I do 3 - 4 passes and it comes out stunningly perfect (NOT because I'm a great painter, BTY) Don't need to clear it--you'll destroy the sheen you just worked so hard--and expensive--to create. *NM*
      • I don't get the fixation some folks seem to have with wanting to clearcoat this, or any, spray chrome finish. Just make sure the part fits, and keep handling to a minimum after it's applied *NM*
        • I couldn't agree more, Mark. *NM*
          • This may sound flippant but it's not meant to be ,, some of us just aren't that great at thinking ahead end end up handling the parts more then we plan to. It happens to me all the time. *NM*
            • No, Steve, it's not flippant, it's normal. Most of us do this. FWIW, I've had to rethink my steps assembling stuff after this chroming. I usually attach a plastic/brass rod to the back/unshown area for handling, then cut it off after assembly. *NM*
        • Well, it would be nice to have a more robust finish to withstand accidental touching or wrapping when storing. A topcoat layer could provide that protection if we find what product would work without dulling the chrome finish. *NM*
          • Plus, I'd like to use it on airliners for a polished bare metal finish and I don't think I could avoid handling that. *NM*
• Jeez, I'm getting lazy. *PICS*
  • That's one of the worst quality prints I've seen. I have several prints that are very smooth and have required no clean up. *NM*
  • Re: Jeez, I'm getting lazy. *PICS*
  • If it were me, it would go in a box for awhile until I become inspired enough to get back at it. Hmmm... maybe that's why I have so many unfinished projects? lol *NM*
• The IH fire truck reminds me of when the local fir station in my home town ran a STEPSIDE 4x4 as a brush truck. Replaced in '79 by a new Chevy K30, which was replaced in '09 by an F-350 dually crew cab.
• Re: "The GM B-bodies is a line that the model companies missed"--unless one models in HO scale!! *PIC*
  • If only in 1/25th. *NM*
• We never talked about it but I've only been using it to seal in spot putty I used to fill sink marks and glue damage on bumpers. Very small spots but it's worked for me. *NM*
  • When I dealt with Chrome-Tech IIRC he told me that the safest bet was lacquer, like Dupli-Color. Polished the heck out of it and got some beautiful results. *NM*
    • Your a brave man Bill. I wouldn't try Duplicolor lacquer on any bare parts let alone something I has having plated. *NM*
      • ALWAYS test it first! You are right, it can ruin parts. I'm guessing every can is different. Different colors are formulated differently, it seems. I think the "chrome" can have any base you want, as long as it is thoroughly cured and smooth. Maybe that Alcad black base
• I am going to have to order some of those, so I can model the lovely Miss Bella.... AKA: Miss Smelly Belly. *NM* *PIC*
  • Oliver thinks she's HOOOOT!.... If you don't mind I still have the bigger scale ones take your pick and you're more than welcome to it. *NM*
• Hope ya don't mind, but ya forgot a couple!
  • There was a NHRA T/F or funny car driver in the '70s, wbo was later revealed to be 'made' in one of the NYC Mafia families...
    • "Broadway Freddie" Dinome. AKA Freddie Dename *LINK*
• Wow. Very Kool! The Black one a bout a 3rd of the way down...OMG! *NM*
• YESSS!!!! *NM*
• LITTLE BOOMER STORY.... and I wish I knew more about his stuff. PIX and thanks for looking
  • You’re a good guy, Frank. Thanks for doing this for Boomer and his family. I’m sure the shelter will appreciate the money coming in. *NM*
  • Boomer seemed like an awful nice guy. I'm sure he was glad to have a friend like you. *NM*
  • This is why I luv ya my friend. *NM*
  • Frank, thanks for the Boomer story, he & I emailed each other for the last 2 or 3 yrs, he was a decent guy who I was honoured to correspond with & I miss him....thanks. *NM*
  • Thanks for taking the time to take care of that stuff for her. Good to see the '48 come home :) Now I gotta get going on mine again. *NM*
  • I remember all the times on the Board Boomer talked about that '48, good to know you it came back to your shelf! *NM*
  • Nice story, I appreciate knowing more about Boomer - I think it's safe to say that he is missed on this board. *NM*
  • Great Story Frank. Hats off to you for being a good Friend and a good Person. *NM*